Mount Elgon is a massive solitary volcanic mountain on the border of eastern Uganda and western Kenya. Its vast form, eighty kilometres in diameter, rises 3070m above the surrounding plains, providing welcome relief in more than one sense of the word. Its mountainous terrain introduces variety to an otherwise monotonous regional landscape. It’s cool heights offer respite for humans from the hot plains below and its higher altitudes provides a refuge for flora and fauna.

Mount Elgon has been regional landmark for a long time: this extinct volcano is one of Uganda's oldest physical features, first erupting around 20 million years ago. It was once Africa's highest mountain, towering above Kilimanjaro's 5895m. Millennia of erosion have reduced its height to 4321m, relegating it to 4th highest peak in East Africa (and 7th on the continent). However, its 4000km2 surface area is still the largest base of any volcanic mountain worldwide.

Mount Elgon is a hugely important water catchment. Its forests receive up to 3000mm of rain each year, which they store and release to support flora, fauna and more than a million Uganda’s. Elgon's water is equally important to many Kenyans, for Mount Elgon is bisected by the international boundary. The mountain's natural vegetation, and it role as a giant biological sponge, is protected by Mount Elgon National Park on both sides of the border. The Uganda park, which was upgraded from a forest reserve is 1993, cover 1,110km2 Though its Kenyan counterpart measures just 170km2, it is adjoined by a forest reserve and national reserve. These parks and reserves in both countries combine to form a trans boundary conservation area covering 2,229km2, which has been declared Man & Biosphere Reserve under UNESCO.

Hikers are appreciating Mount Elgon's deserted moorlands. A climb on Mount Elgon is to explore a magnificent and uncluttered mountain wilderness without the summit-oriented approach common to higher regional mountains. Indeed the ultimate goal on reaching the top of Mount Elgon is not the final ascent to the 4321m Wagagai pear, but the descent into the vast 40km caldera.

HOW TO GET THERE: Mount Elgon National Park lies 235km east of Uganda's capital city. A tarmac road runs through Jinja to Mbale town at the western base of Mount Elgon, before climbing to Kapchorwa on the mountain's north-western flank. Tarmac road lead off the Mbale-Kapchorwa road to reach the various trailheads.

FLORA and FAUNA: The ascent of Mount Elgon passes through a series of roughly concentric vegetation zones. The lower slopes of the mountain are intensively farmed up to the park boundary. The first zone of natural vegetation is montane forest which runs from the park boundary up to 2500m. This is followed by bamboo and low canopy forest (2400- 3000m), then high montane heath (3000 - 3500m) which includes the giant heather (Phillipea excelsia) growth up to 6m tall. Above 3500m, cold temperature and fierce winds force the heather to give way to open moorland. Finally, above 3800m, dramatic Afro alpine vegetation is found among tussock grassland and Corex bogs. This rare and spectacular vegetation is restricted to the upper reaches of East Africa's highest mountains and includes the giant groundsel (Senecio elgonensis) and the endemic Lobelia elgonensis.

The Park supports a variety of wildlife including elephant, buffalo, Defassa's waterbuck, oribi, bushbuck, leopard and spotted hyena. However, as is usual in the forest environments, most of these species are rarely seen. The most commonly seen creatures are black and white colobus, blue monkey, duiker and tree squirrel.

The mountain is home to 296 birds including 40 restricted range species. Birds whose Ugandan range is limited to Mount Elgon including Jackson's francolin, moustached green tinker bird, and black collared apalis, The bronze-naped pigeon, Hartlaub's turaco and tacozze sunbirb are limited to Mount Elgon and a few other mountains in eastern Uganda. Mount Elgon is also one of the few places in Uganda where the endangered Lammergeyer can be seen, soaring above the caldera and Suam gorge.

Climbing the mountain: Mount Elgon National Park is a road less wilderness. The park can only be explored on foot, on routes that range from day walk to extended hikes over several days to reach the upper mountain. You can also make you hike a trans boundary adventure, ascending the Uganda slopes and descending on the Kenyan side (or vice versa). This requires prior arrangement to meet with Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) rangers at a crossover point at the springs in the caldera.

A trained ranger guide is required on all treks. Local porters make your hike easier, each carrying up to 18kg of supplies, in addition to collecting water, cooking and preparing the camp.

The best times to climb Mount Elgon are during the dry seasons of June-August and December-March. No technical climbing equipment or skills are required to reach the main peaks. The caldera and the peaks are the mail destinations, while along the way; a choice of trails passes interesting and unique flora and fauna, waterfalls, lakes, caves, gorges and hot springs.

Around the park Trailheads and Routes
Routes from three main trailheads lead to the caldera. The trek lengths given below refer to return journeys.

Sasa trail. (4 days) This route, which starts from Budadiri town, is the closest to Mbale town and is the most easily accessible. It also provides the most direct route to the peaks, albeit with a stiff climb of over 1,600m on the first day. it crosses the park's largest area of bamboo forest and passes the lovely Jackson's Pool on the way to Wagagai Peak.

Sipi trail (7 days). The route starts at the Forest Exploration Centre at Kapkwai, a few kilometres upstream from the Sipi Fall which lie just outside the park. The trail visits the spectacular Tatum cave hidden with in extensive forest.

Piswa trail (7 days). This trail, starts at Kapkwata, 30km beyond Kapchorwa, is a long route, but start at a highter and follows a more gradual route to the caldera. It is notable for the Podocarpus forest

Suam trail. This long and little used trail starts at the village of Suam on the Kenyan border crossing. It follows the Suam River through the steep and spectacular Suam Gorge to the hot spring on th eastern side of the caldera.

Accommodation: The National park provides dormitory accommodation and self contain wooden cottages at the Forest Exploration Centre at Kapkwai. Meals are available on request. The park also has self catering guesthouses at Kapkwata and Suam. Outside the Park, accommodation is available at Kapchorwa and Budadiri. A range of accommodation is found around the scenic Sipi Falls, and at the foot of the mountain in Mbale town.